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Five stages in series. The cheapest one is first, the dearest is last.

A glass takes half a minute to fill · Flow gets weaker every month · Fine for a few seconds then dribbles · Water tastes odd but runs fast · System clicks on and off · Nothing at the tap at all · Filters were changed and it is still slow
7–10 psiAir pressure in the tank, measured empty. The cheapest thing to check
40 psiMinimum inlet pressure. Below that the membrane simply cannot make water
3–6 moLife of the sediment stage — and it is the one that clogs first
Easy · No tools for the first three checks

The chain in series, the tank in parallel, and what each stage costs you

diagnose
What failed
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Which part
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State
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Next
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what to touch fault correct Click the inlet valve, the cartridges, or the tank

Every stage starves every stage after it

A five-stage system is a series circuit, not a set of parallel filters. Water has to pass through the sediment cartridge, then the carbon block, then the pump, then the membrane, then the post-filter, to reach the tap. That has one consequence which explains this whole page: anything that restricts flow anywhere in the chain reduces the flow everywhere downstream of it. So "the flow is slow" tells you nothing about which stage is responsible. You have to find the pressure drop, and the only way to do that cheaply is to work from the free checks toward the expensive parts.

And the ordering is unfortunate, because the chain is built the wrong way round for diagnosis: the cheapest part is first and the most expensive part is last. A sediment cartridge costs a few dollars. A membrane costs twenty times that. So the natural instinct — replace the filter — is aimed at the wrong end of the price list before a single free test has been done. Repair data from service call-outs is consistently blunt about this: most visits are for filters that were simply overdue, and a large share could have been closed by the homeowner with a pressure gauge and a bicycle pump.

Which brings us to the part almost nobody checks. An RO system stores its water in a bladder tank with air behind it — typically 7 to 10 psi of pre-charge with the tank empty. That air is what pushes the water out of the tap. When it leaks down, the tank still fills, the membrane still works, the filters are still fine, and the tap dribbles. Nothing is broken. You add air with a bicycle pump and the flow comes back. It is the single most common cause of "slow flow" that is not a filter, and it costs nothing to check.

Then there is the trap in the carbon stage. Sediment cartridges fail honestly: they go brown, then black, and you can see it. Carbon does not. Activated carbon works by adsorption, which is a chemical process — it exhausts its capacity long before it looks dirty, and a saturated carbon block passes chlorine straight through to the membrane. Chlorine is what degrades RO membranes. So a carbon cartridge that “looks fine” is the mechanism by which a membrane that should have lasted three years dies in eighteen months. Replace carbon on the calendar, not on appearance.

Three faults, and the order to check them in

The one number that is not a guess

A TDS meter costs less than one cartridge and turns the last decision into arithmetic: (inlet − product) ÷ inlet. A healthy membrane rejects 90 to 95 per cent. Below 85 per cent it is done. And note what it does not tell you: high product TDS with normal flow is not a worn membrane — it is usually a membrane housing O-ring that is not seated, a membrane fitted the wrong way round, or a counterfeit membrane. That is a reinstall, not a replacement, and it is worth checking before you buy anything.

Before you spend anything. Do the free three in this order: a tap elsewhere in the house, the inlet valve fully open, and a hand along the tubing for kinks. If those are clean, check the tank pre-charge — that is a tyre gauge and a bicycle pump, not a part. Only then buy cartridges, and only the stage the evidence points at. Stop and call the supplier if the system clicks on and off repeatedly, if there is an abnormal noise, or if there is no water at all: that is the high-pressure switch, the pump or the control board, and none of those are consumables. Stop if the tank will not hold air after pumping, because the bladder is ruptured. Stop if the water has sat in the tank for more than a few days, or the system was left off for weeks: that is biofilm in the tank, and the fix is disinfection and flushing, not a new cartridge. And never drink the first water after a carbon change — flush for ten to fifteen minutes, because a new carbon block sheds fines that look like black dust.

Faults next to this one